10 mistakes to avoid when you commission a bespoke suit!

Wow...perfect timing. I'm in Portugal and an online MTM company called I-Tailor Gold is touring major European cities over the next month giving free 30 minute consulting and measurements appointments with their expert tailor, as well as a review of hundreds of fabrics. My first thought was I would need much more than 30 minutes...even for a relatively inexpensive suit (starting at 600 euro!)

Great advice guys. It's a very comprehensive look at commissioning bespoke. Yes, my heart sinks when the dreaded phrase "I'm going to lose some weight..." is uttered. Refined Elegance is what I always tell clients. However, I do like fun linings. And, yes the most important thing is that it is a relationship and an ongoing conversation. I think the only thing I would add is some clients like to source their own cloth if it is something personal or special to them, but make sure to check with one's tailor that it is suitable for the garment being commissioned. THB is quite rare but it has happened to me in the past with something very unsuitable for tailoring purposes. Loved the video.

Great advice as always. Very nice looking tile.

Please make video on best MTM in India

I must admit I followed my tailor for a long time before I was able to actually put my order in. He moved twice and now has his own house which is why I stepped up for the first order. Going for my second this year.

The show always is so helpful. Thank you both.

There is so much confusion about bespoke. People think it's bespoke just because it's not off the rack. I have about 7 suits and 2 tuxedos... all MTM. I took advantage of the B&D offer and am waiting for the first fitting. Having suits made is a learning experience. My advice to the young men around me is who have asked me... start with MTM.

I went to a small tailor in Naples and she farmed out a jacket and a suit. The jacket and suit jacket were both noticeably smaller than the first suit jacket she made for me. I will never use her again and I won't refer anyone to her. Before her I used a larger tailoring house in Naples and I never had and still haven't a problem with them and the consistency of their garments.

Hi Sonya, I've always wondered what fabric your denim suit is made from. Any details about it? Excellent video, as always!

One of my mistakes was for my first bespoke overcoat in 2017. I picked out a lovely 22oz Fox Brothers fabric in navy and just asked for it as a double breasted. 
I should have been more explicit with the style as it was only when the overcoat was finished that they had cut as a 6x2 with large, peaked lapels (hadn’t noticed or questioned what the lapels will be like at the basted stage). 
Seven years on, I still love wearing it when dressed formally but that has been the only time I can.

The opinion of experienced people is always a treasure, thank you very much)

Could you do something about pairing shoes with suits. You have done suits, shoes but putting them together is something I struggle with.

the situation when I "like" a video even before watching one. Merci, Hugo and Sonya!

Such an informative ‘chat’ giving some great advice.

If a man is fortunate enough to purchase such a ‘bespoke’ suit and to spend many thousands of pounds you need all the help and the saying ‘quality, quality, quality’ always wins.

I refer to King Charles
He is always dressed impeccably - especially in Samoa in the last 2 days with that white shirt with a type of cummerbund to connect to Samoa
Made by Anderson & Shepard , Bespoke ,
Old Burlington Street
London w1

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Why is it deemed improper to request a discount on a bespoke suit? High-value purchases, such as homes, cars, and businesses, typically involve negotiation. Some believe that asking for a discount offends the artisan tailor, but isn't the same true for architects and builders? Also, suit companies/tailors negotiate with their suppliers as part of their procurement process thus various markups are passed on to the customer. What explains the double standards and taboos surrounding cost negotiation?

Hugo, I’m a Peluso customer and if you need a help with language or just someone to hang out with next time you’re in italy, just let me know.

Great video but a little late for me, lol. I'm a first-time client and have commissioned two suits in the last year from two different tailors, one British (Henry Poole) and the other Italian (Eric Jensen of Stefano Bemer). In addition, I commissioned a navy blue blazer from Henry Poole as well. While that might be considered a mistake since I haven't finished the first suit yet, nobody does a blue blazer as well as the British imho, so I feel pretty good about it. Luckily, I avoided all the other mistakes or at least I think I have.

Btw Sonya, I'm also a University of Georgia graduate, Class of 1980. I grew up in Athens, and my parents were both on the UGa faculty. My mom was the Journalism 101 professor for many years, so if you were majoring in journalism you had to go through her. This was before your time though, I'm sure. While growing up, whenever I would bump into a reporter or tv journalist, they would say, "Are you related to Dr. Bethune at UGa? She was the coolest teacher I ever had." And I would think, "My Mom? Cool?" lol

For all of you who are thinking of going bespoke, I can tell you from my perspective it has been a wonderful experience so far. I tell my tailor what I'm looking for in terms of general color, three piece, and how I anticipate wearing it and pretty much let them decide the rest as we discuss the details. I even told both of them to surprise me with the lining, lol.

Nice video. I’ve almost exclusively done MTM (US companies for the most part) for twenty years. Just don’t fit well off the rack. I’d seriously love to do bespoke, probably English, but what are the real prices? In 2024 you really can’t ignore cost. The days of if you have to ask you can’t afford it are gone. I can afford it, but it’s competing with other wants in my life. Most, maybe all, of the Saville Row houses more or less invite anyone to walk in off the street, which seems strangely odd. Maybe next time I’m in London I’ll visit a couple just for research. There’s a psychology here as well…

Pinstripes of your name? It is very useful Mr Jacomet - without them, what on earth would I do if I were to forget my name? 😂

Great advice 👍

Thank you both!

Speaking of neapolitan tailoring, I've seen Hugo wear a beautiful pink Saint Gregory suit; is there any review or comments on the suis or this tailor shop? Thanks

I love your videos and the music too.

I started my bepoke journey when I moved to Japan with Tailor Caid, he is such a wonderful tailor that when I commissioned my first order he guided me through the enitre process and helped me avoid some of the mistakes mentioned in this video. The only mistake I made was entirely on me, that I went to him too soon just when I was still dealing with the stress of moving to a new country and a getting used to a new career, which I lost a lot of weight during that period, and as he was working on my suit I gradually settled in my new life and went back to my usual weight, so between my first and second fitting I gained like 4 kilos which was not insignificant.

Great advice! While I have an extensive bespoke wardrobe I’ve made the mistake you mentioned with respect to my posture. I recently retired and have done a blazer with contacting button holes, which is fun.

Speaking of speaking Italian. I am fluent but do not know even the most basic sartorial terms in Italian, nor can I find them in my dictionary. Do you know where I can find a lexicon of useful sartorial words like peak lapel, jetted pockets, vents, darts, etc. since literal translation does not work well on artisanal, artistic, or technical terms in my experience.

What ever happened to the two pairs of pants with your suit? I have never seen this in any store. Did it ever really happen?

You didn't condemn skinny fit to hell or even worse! Skinny fit doesn't fit!!!!!!

For myself, the bottom of my chest pocket aligns with my armpit. Whereas I noticed Hugo’s is aligned with the top of his chest pocket. Would mine be considered too high?

Sonia has really good sense of dressing. I am a man but her style and the way she carry her style is evenly inspiring for me

Thank you so much for this great and informative video. I am starting my MTM journey in January 2025. This video helps me to be even better prepared when I meet my tailor the first time. I have chosen my tailoring house in the meantime. I will commission my suit with Redmayne, located on Wigton, UK.
You both have won a new subscriber.

Dear Sonia and Hugo, Thank you! Great content as well. Asking for your input: I commissioned a bespoke suit with a very well known Savile Row tailor. The jacket looks fantastic… as long as I don’t move! If I lift my arm even for a handshake, the sleeves become very tight and ride up my forearm. The same happens if I were to hug someone or point at something. The back, near the armhole, is also very tight. I feel I would rip the jacket if I bend to tie my shoes. The tailor said he can fix it and that some people just sit and movement is not as important to them. I told him I don’t want a fix, I paid a substantial amount for a jacket done right, not a mended one. And I am not expecting to do gymnastics with the jacket but at a minimum expect to be able to at least shake hands comfortably. What is customary when obvious flaws like this occur? Thank you!

Great points about ordering bit by bit and ESPECIALLY about telling the tailor it's not a rush.

I don't see any issue on discussing price, in particular it's important to know how they are pricing different cloths etc to make the best value decision for yourself and in accordance with what you're prepared to spend. Also they are business people it's certainly acceptable to negotiate but of course there is a right and wrong way to do it. Certainly wouldn't expect a discount on normal list price just buying a normal suit.

I like you en your beautiful wife so much. Love listening to you. Thanks for al you wise advice

Hello, I am Andres Magana from Mexico, I discovered your channel two weeks ago. First, as a catholic I want to say that I love your humility, remains me to Christs! Secondly, I want to say thank you MUCHAS GRACIAS for everything that you two are teaching me. I am watching your videos from older to newer. Now I am in 2018 I will watch all your videos I hope that one day I can meet you two and have a sandwich together, and a coffee. By the way I want to start a made to measure business ! Last by not least, you have a House in SAN PEDRO Garza Garcia, Nuevo León and are really welcome here! GRACIAS!!!!

I watch your videos from Nigeria and I love them. Supposedly, we in the third world either do not love or know nothing about the sartorial world but it isn’t true 😂. Love ur channel, it’s educating and inspiring.

Thank you for your videos❤

Great topic: thats why we send a intake form and list of points to consider.

Wow. Do you have any idea how many a week 1200 a year is. OMG.

Hi there, can you recommend tailors in Southern Spain, please? We live in Cádiz. Thank you!

My Kiton overcoat that is RTW is already over 17k USD - 14k Euro for a Bespoke coat isn't that crazy. Vicuna coat would cost 40k USD.

What if I want to be encouraged to stand up more straight when wearing my suit? I think I should be slightly at least improve my posture when getting measured, not too much so that it will be impossible to maintain a strict posture throughout the day, but a bit more to get a more confident feeling just from the posture. What are your thoughts on that, especially as someone like me who doesn’t wear suits every day?

Here in Italy you can find 70 year old esoteric tailors with incredible skills who will make you a bespoke suit for 2000 euros.

great ideas. as usual

speaking of price, when JP Morgan was once ask how his Yacht will cost and he replied if you have to ask the price you probably cannot avoid it😀

I just rewatched this video as I am getting ready to commission my first bespoke garment. Most regular viewers of the channel probably were aware of most of the things that you mentioned, but it was comforting to know that I was thinking along these lines already. Because I am in the US, and my appointment is with a tailor during their “trunk shows,” is there anything else that we ought to know/be aware of, in preparation for the initial meeting?

One thing that comes to my mind is to find out how frequently the tailor makes trips to your city. I scheduled an appointment with this particular tailor because they tend to visit my city 3-4 times per year , so I have a good idea for how long the process will be. Great video as always!

What's a shearing shoulder?

I am coming off a 4 month hospitalization and near death experience. Stable for about a year in terms of weight. None of my clothes fit so just ordered two MTM suits. Appreciate your channel and waiting is hard

For one, start with made to measure