Most DIYers Do Not Know This | Loctite Red Threadlocker Curing

>"Most DIYers Do Not Know This | Loctite Red Threadlocker Curing"

Click bait titles, more dishonest and disingenuous then ever.

Sometimes you need red sometimes you need blue other times you need copper grease...
The decision is yours...

Better off with a nordlock washer

This falls into the "for what it's worth" category.
Most bolts and nuts loosen up because of the sloppy thread fit. That was why lock washers came to be. Years ago I had a piece of equipment that had some one inch studs that kept coming loose. I'd hammer then tight with an impact gun, then further tighten with a breaker bar and a long pipe. It was tight! Over the course of weeks and up to a couple of months, these studs would loosen up. Finally I took them apart, cleaned the threads, then applied a light coat of RTV silicone and re-torque the same as before. After that nothing loosened up, ever. And the silicone kept out moisture so disassembly was a non-event. It has been my go-to method on anything that lives in a world of vibration and I've had great results. Your results my vary.

overated product. craft glue would work just as good and cleans easier too

I find the lock tite gel works better in my experience

Knowing how to properly use tools might make a difference. You never use an extender or “cheater bar” with a torque wrench if you expect a reliable reading. Torque wrench values are based on specific leverage to base logarithms to produce the accurate reading unless you determine the variable of the additional leverage quotient.

I'd be suspicious of data that shows an unexpected drop in torque value when it should be at least as high.

So, no bar was necessary on the ratchet handle.

Use a bit of brake clean to take the oil off the fasteners before loctite, every shop has some.

Superglue works pretty good too in a pinch.

Thanks. Interesting. :)

If you tighten it up with the red, it’s not coming loose. You don’t need to do all that prep work. Who’s got time for that nobody

I did not know all that you demonstrated. Interesting. Maybe you used far too much activator? Catalysts and epoxy are both fussy solutions. This has been in my mind recently. So also there needs to be pressure to suitably activate the Loctite achieved by torque applied to the mechanical bond. Which I consider a vital part of the bond. One scientists knew would be present but you eliminated by not using the fasteners to do any clamping. Significant?

Would like to see the same tests using stainless steel nuts & bolts..

I would do the activated again.. the first 2 were higher than the last 3 as ifvthey were losing strength
.. does not make sense

You call it activated but it seems to be just a pre cleaning. ?

ok i understood 24hrs...

Try Nm as the Real World works on Bolts in Situe not free standing nuts & bolts

I don't and never will use loctite. You just don't need it. Ive never had a bolt/nut come loose. Maybe im just lucky. 👍

Yooo soooond like yooooore from Minesoooootah

I wonder what less time does?

lock tight I'd awesome

Those nuts were not under tension , this makes the experiment invalid , try again with nuts clamping something or a jam nut .

Save your money.

Now with regular unclean bolts, that would be interesting

This is the one you want:
Locktite makes the 263 red threadlocker it is primerless and can be used on all metal and CAN BE used on as received fasteners that have not been cleaned.

Not sure you can use that torque wrench with an extension handle as shown in your video and still get an accurate result. You can’t with a traditional mechanical torque wrench… It sounds counterintuitive but there’s a good reason.

Very good. Thanks.

Interesting experiment, some nice method here. If done with 50 samples (5 unprimed, 5 primed per time interval), it might show if the primed torque smaller than unprimed at 72h is accidental or consistent.

I've used threadlocker on bolts by just cleaning them with carb cleaner, and it's worked very well. Never had any issues. Most of us don't have day's or extra time to paint every fastener every time, seems there would be a better alternative.

Cool test, be interesting to see a comparison also with not cleaning the fasteners beforehand since you know almost nobody is going to do that in practice.

This is great but I wish you had did a set NOT cleaned for comparison.
Like 99% of people do.

It would be good to see statistical control graphs.
time for x-axis, torque for y-axis.

Isopropyl alcohol leaves an oily film on things. Most folks don't know this, you might be surprised by this. Just put a few drops into your kitchen sink, let it evaporate and run water over it, notice it beading up. My wife was a nail tech and taught me this. Always something to learn as an old mechanical engineer!!

Lesson learned....if you want to remove the nut later don't use activator. I've seen freaking red locktite need a torch to get the nuts removed sometimes....

I learned the other day that the red loctite has a much shorter working time than I thought. 10 minutes or much less. LOL

Tightness of threads to begin with matters more than type of metal in my experience.

When you say that " not many people knoe about that" You really think that when people buy new product like Loctite they just us it without reading how to use it? I bet you talk form your BAD experiance...

I'd have thought zinc would be active due to its reactivity.
What people don't realize is that zinc platings are sacrificial anodic protection.

I thought it was the friction from the tightening torque that " sets " the Loctite . Not just air dry .

Whoever invented red loctite thought they were the knight in shinning armor but they were just a retard in tinfoil this shit is the absolute curse and stain upon my very being and somebody over as Suzuki needs there 45 gallon drum of loctite they dip the bolts in taken away

Great video!

That's nice. What are the comparative ratings for nuts and bolts without thread locker. I mean, if we're going to compare two methods, let's have a neutral substrate to compare them to.

Listen, if you want to PERMANENTLY secure the nut with ZERO chance of it getting loose, just tighten the nut as much as you can, then take a Flat Head Screwdriver and damage the threads of the bolt where the nut is, and it will NEVER come loose, but remember, this will be permanent, but if you ever need to undo it, you can always cut it off.

I LOVE this! Well done.....I wonder what the torques would be with threading all bolts thru a hole and tightening to a specific force and then throw in a CONTROL sample (NO LOCKTITE) too?

You’re totally wrong!

Inactive metals are platinum, gold, aluminum, stainless steel and some plated metals like chrome.

Zinc, zinc plating and zinc bolts are all ACTIVE.

Activator is NOT required. It just speeds up the curing process.

Thread locker is an anaerobic adhesive. It will not cure in an aerobic environment.

Just use thread locker like you always have.

Why would prevailing torque standard be shown as higher than breakaway on your table?
Just backwards from what you had