3 EV Range Hacks | In Depth

you guys need to use kilowatts per mile. much more useful honestly.

What tire pressures did you actually use in the Model 3?

I checked my tire pressures for the first time and the dealer had pumped the tires to 42 psi, except for the one tire that had 40 psi. Kia's recommendation for the Niro EV is 36 psi.

keep us updated about your job.I will be signing in brilliant the moment you get that offer letter

Such a poor video really.even I could do better with no experience

If you double your speed, you quadruple your drag !
Therefore….
If you reduce your speed by 25% 75mph to 56mph you……?…..to your drag!
Answers below please…

Detox seams to be working for you.

Uh, the tire inflation "hack" doesn't really help as you are unlikely to be able to stop wherever you are in your trip and have a place to air up your tires (and a tire pressure gauge to check them).

Rather than choose an inefficient iD4, why not pick one like a Kona E or Kia Niro which can match the Mod 3 for efficiency , it would be more like apples for apples then !

I thought with tpms becoming standard more people would run proper pressure, but I found the majority of people just think something is wrong with the system when the light comes on and ignore it, smh.

Driving through a 45 mph construction zone, I can't drive that slow without using Cruise control due to other drivers pressuring faster speeds. I wonder if using FSD would get about 30% more range, simply because its isn't aggressive and drives the speed limit.

What do you do? Buy a Volt...

Guys, did you put the cars into the "Chill" driving mode?

guys, 125-35=90

I like these hacks, but this already how I drive. And I guarantee that if I let 10 psi out of my tires, my TPMS will let me know about it, in fact it kicks in at about 5 psi low. I think all cars do this. Also, the tire pressure savings is miniscule at most and 95% of the savings come from the way you drive. And when on your way home, do you pull over and put more air in your tires to increase the range? I think you will use just as much energy from this stop as you will save. It is just a good reminder that there is some efficiency in proper tire pressure. There is also a gain mileage when you overinflate your tires, but this is actually a safety hazzard and you should keep your tires at the recommended inflation psi.

You should have split the 3 hacks tests separately. Most of the drivers can drive slower, but most of the drivers do inflate their tires correctly, so how much is what part ? I personally believe that the speed is what is making the most difference, because of the air resistance, but it would have been nice to know how much exactly.

I guess ABRP probably has the watts/mile if u just want to see the top speed hack by itself.

Kilometers left the chat....

How do those cars make the range estimates? Do they consider how you drove in the past? Do they know about the temperatur? Do they know how many hills you have to climb?

M3 will have 38% more range on Chill: (5.35 mi/kwh ÷ 3.86 mi/kwh).

You say that you chose the 3 hacks because they seem “realistic,” but driving on tires 10 psi underinflated is absurdly UNrealistic. I couldn’t care less about that comparison. The other two factors are all that matter, and, sadly, this little experiment tells us almost nothing about that.

3 1/2 minutes in to get past the sponsor crap..

For Tesla, set to Chill Mode, drive with autopilot set to 65-75 mph, regen to standard and keep exterior clean

In my Fiat500e highway driving kills the range, unless it is stop and go traffic, in which case I could drive all day like that. My big tip would be get off the highway, driving on surface streets will be slower, but driving at 25-35mph will give you a huge boost (30-40%), and stop and go is even better because every (moderate) deceleration charges you up again.

If you're not in a rush and you're highway driving and you stay in the far right lane this might not be a big deal and you'll be good.

Of course if you kick the speed up to 60 or 65 you're gonna be less efficient but you truly need to plan your trips and use A Better Rout Planner to plan out your trip and charging stops. And if you're in a Tesla use ABR and/or the built-in Tesla navigation because it's going to make sure you don't run out of power by suggesting the places and times to stop and charge.

I agree that the tire pressure should be right and you shouldn't drive aggressively but I think kicking the speed up and compensating for the power loss is what you should be doing and then making sure you're stopping to top off when recommended.

Now all of this changes when driving in harsh conditions like rain, show and potential icy roads. That's when it's time to drive likena little old lady.

Its good to know the improvement possible overall. It would have been more h Itelpful if you had broken out the effect of your 3 "hacks" individually. It is easiest to control your speed, but not as easy to change tire pressure whe you are already on the highway. Plus it is easy to monitor your tire pressure while driving because most cars use TPMS. It is relativ3ely easy to put the ar in "chill" mode, but it will not help you o the highway where usually one cruises at a relatively constant speed.

This was useful, however I really want to know how much difference I'll see when drafting a semi on a long trip.

Found it useful!

125-35=90

It sounds like there's a fourth hack, which is not to buy the id4.

Who the hell drives with 10 PSI under inflated tires?
Let's try this test with normal tires to be more realistic.
What is realistic in the US anymore anyway?

Come on guys, modern cars are not driving around with 10 psi low tires. All these cars have tire pressure monitoring systems that would let you know that. I could see one or 2 pounds but typically below three and that annoying like comes on. Would’ve been a better test if you independently tested each hack separately that way those of us driving around with properly inflated Tires could see the difference driving slower makes. Maybe next time drive with an over inflated tire and see if that helps range.

My usage for 1879 miles. Used 442 kWh at 235 Wh/mi in Model 3 SR+ 2021

Miles per kWh makes more sense to people.

Delete and repost when they are actually correct. 😂

How effective are each hack?

Together they are about 30%, but:
Are they 10% each, or does one of them contribute 28%, and the other two does maybe 1% each?

Best hacks for best range should include hiding behind large trucks, slowing down while climbing without impeding rear traffic, gaining maximum speed when rolling down hill, steering as little and as slow / anticipative as possible (includes taking the path of least resistance in turns, again traffuc permitting). But hey!... all that should be implemented (if not already) in Tesla AI that can read all parameters and thus calculate far mote precisely and accurately the best trajectory possible for any desired user outcome (range, ETA, comfort, sport etc.) without ever sacrificing safety all-around. Right!? 😊😜 Right!! 😁😀 Or, far better have an H.S.U.V do all that "safest self efficient assisted navigation" completely compter and AI free just by leveraging simple physics (radio waves EM + pressure sensors always on and unfailing cushioning that can guide the car on the path of least resistance and maximum safety for everything the user is always free to decide on doing be it range or rage 😀). This system would make use of NI (natural intelligence) and could be called F.L.O.W... And yes, I have a super invention also on how to build and even convert roads to their absolute best shape and dynamic natural logic 😜😁

What are tesla like on tyers Jack and jess.thanks

Good info but unfortunately… pretty poor maths gentlemen!

125 - 35 is 90 not 95. How can we trust all your other math?

I have a chevy Volt and I always drive like grandma to strech my range

I wonder if anyone's ever thought of having a replaceable compressed air canister in the wheels that would automatically top up the tyres.

Thanks again gents, I'll apply this logic to my 2012 Leaf until I can get my Tesla.

One night i came out of a meeting knowing that my 2018 LR AWD Model 3 was in need of a charge. The software warned me that there was not enough battery to reach any known charger. What am i to do? I know: the Tesla store is only 3 miles, so what if ti says i haven’t ANY Charge left. I got a friend to follow me — just in case. The Tesla store was closed, of course and worse the chargers were all being used to charge Company vehicles, now what?? Call Tesla Road service and ask them could they release one of the chargers for me. They couldn’t do that as they tried but they didn’t have authority, and they didn’t know that a New Tesla 8-stall charging station had just been opened at the local Target store. I was desperate. I didn’t wanna pay for a tow, it was late at night anyway, and my friend was still waiting for me. I finally looked at the sign I have been posted on the Chargers, saying this charger is no longer public, use the New charging stations at the Target store. . Now the chargedstate was reading -4 miles😉😰😰 how are we gonna get there?? Slowly! To save electrons. Well it turns out that we made it. The lesson I guess is that Tesla like all the ice cars has left a little reserved for emergencies in their software, and the state of charge at zero means you still have something left. I don’t suggest you try this, it’s not worth it. But I saved my day. Thanks Tesla!

The test with the m3 and the ID isnt scientific, they are 2 different cars with different weights, the ID4 weighs around 900lb more than the Tesla.second driving erratic and fast proves nothing as each driver has their own way of driving.

What about putting on smaller wheels?

I've done a LOT of driving due to my career choice and my favorite mileage hack for any type of car is still drafting behind a semi truck right in the optimal efficiency range. That and costing in neutral anytime possible.

When I was in my 20s it was basically like playing a game to see how much extra mileage I could get over the EPA.

Wow 10 PSI? That's like 30% low. I cannot imagine many drivers could ride that low without getting a warning light?