Tall Climber VS Small Climber

as a 4'11 climber it does get very frustrating when I have to dyno a lot of moves that regular climbers can just reach, however, there are times where being tiny or weighing very little makes it easier! also, I think having to be much more aware of my feet and overall body position has made me have better technique than other climbers

I am 5.2 and have been bouldering for a while now. Whilst my buddies might climb harder on reachy routes and dynamic climbs, I end up having a strenght and coordination advantage. Simply because when they could reach, i had to pull myself up. In the long run, I get more chances to train myself, whilst they do not. It pays off in strenght now. When you're used to failing, you keep trying!!!

I feel like being short makes it easier to control your movements and while that takes more time, it's easier as in "staying more consistent". But being tall usually means you can reach further and maybe even skip steps which means you can reach the top faster, but some holds and situations bring you in really weird positions

As a 5'4” male climber I was rooting for Jon. Epic climbing by both. Great to see the different approaches and styles, but both making it work

Funny enough as a taller climber (6ft 3) on harder climbs I often feel I have to compensate my height by going more dynamically because I can't hold the tension required for the "regular" beta.

I think it's still rough when you see a tall climber easily skip an entire beta and you're over there like mapping every part. But i do think it evens out in the end and i think slab is easier for shorter people actually.

At an advanced level being tall is actually is a disadvantage. Most of the best outdoor or competition boulderers or climbers are below average height. In Sport where height is an advantage the pro athletes are way taller. This is caused by simple physic ( cube square law, longer levers, w = f x d, proportionally less surface area on holds, crimps are proportionally smaller, more momentum when cutting loose) who lead to decrease in strength to weight ratio with increasing height ( the same physics cause pro gymnasts to be short). Theoretically one could calculate the percentage impact of those factors in strength to weight ratio , but it is very hard to calculate the positiv impact of height and longer limbs into climbing performance as every problem is different. Taller climbers are more disadvantaged on overhangs than on vertical climbs.
In conclusion you can see that top tall climbers are always physically weaker than shorter climbers but sometimes can use their longer reach as an advantage. The optimal height is 5’5” to 5’9” for men and 5’2 to 5’6” for women.
Question to everyone:
In my opinion competition boulders and routes should be set to favor tall people due to the fact that if there are no moves that favor tall people short people will always have the advantage because they are stronger. Do you also think high level setting should be fair?

so being average height is the perfect advantage from what i see

I feel like the real answer is that climbing walls are designed to be climbed by humans of a variety of sizes, so you should expect people of average size (probably average sized men tbh, sorry ladies) to find problems most size appropriate. The extremes, whether tall or short, likely are at some disadvantage. It's no different than fitting in a sports car properly really. That's just how any one size fits all solution works really.

Why did jon sound scouse sometimes 😂

Before watching the video my assumption is that small climbers have a greater power to weight ratio with a smaller wingspan meaning they need less power with more skill while a larger climber has a smaller power to weight ratio meaning they would need more strength and less skill. Also each climber would have movements that are seemingly simple to themselves but very difficult to the other. Life is too complicated to make blanket, black and white statements like "it is better to be X."

WHere did u buy ur shorts? (to the short one)

What if Jon was just a better climber?

In the end it just comes down to how skilled you are and the effort you put in. (Both have advantages though)

Being tall is a disadvantage in overhangs where you have to deal with much greater forces and in cramped spaces. Like sometimes I'm trying to hold something under my waist and to reach something after must be a dynamic "now or never" move whilst for my short friend it's a hold in her chest height and she can nice and easy reach out and test the hold.

smaller guys need less strength cause they weigh less

They both have advantages. Tall climbers have reach and can static bigger moves, but shorter climbers have a much easier time controlling they’re center of gravity and body position.

I’m 6’2’’ it make most climbs easier but importantly it doesn’t make you a better climber. Height is relevant when the measure is the quality of the climber. It is was all about height the worlds best would look like an NBA lineup.

Nice sesh. But the answer is obvious - esp for indoor it really depends on who is setting. Most gyms have almost exclusively males of average height setting, so I'd bet money it advantages one to be a male of average height (or whatever the predominant body type of the majority of setters in your personal gym).

Unless we are talking ropes. Inside or outside I haven't felt disadvantaged in the slightest. Like most lady born people, I don't like to jump and I don't have a large reach -- I have often been surprised at the climbs my boulder bro friends haven't been able to complete on the wall after absolutely smashing me at bouldering. Bouldering is absolutely harder as an average height female (at least everywhere I've climbed)...but only because most setters are not born female (not only are we shorter, we generally have negative or neutral ape indexes, so take several more inches off that 6" disadvantage and those who grade bouldering routes are also generally of a diff build.

Sometimes it sucks, but after ten years of this, climbing stops being about the grade and more about intrinsic value.

i mean there is a reason why asians are so goated in bouldering

As a 5'3 person most moves are more challenging for me compared to my taller 6' husband. He can simply just reach up and grab holds that are simply way out of my reach lol. I have to do a lot more jumping and hoping and takes me longer to get it done. Of course there's probably some that would be easier for me and harder for him, like smaller holds, but that goes the same way for larger/ bulkier holds which are harder for me, just depends.

i never thought about how giant you are wow

Im happy to be at the perfect height for climbing in between not too short or too tall
really can FIT any dynamic necessary for a climb :)

i love both of them, but i think one of them got some chalk in his hair

Josh stripping, lol 😅

Taller = more weight but still has more advantages I think.

I'm 5'4" and felt every one of Jon's attempts. Also, I named that giant red boulder "Rolling Stones" ;)

I'd say 170 cm, 60kg and ape index +10 is the best. But whatever we gotta work with what we've got and enjoy the process.

Most fun climbing video I think I've ever seen!

Im 5"6... everyone tells me the only reason I have the strength that I do is because im small... The only people who say "you only did this climb cause your short/tall" are always average height and average climbers.

I’m 6ft 3 and I’m ok at doing it my sister’s who are petite are masters

To make up for being short you can be dynamic. If you're too big for a box there's nothing you can do. This and most setters are 6-7 inches shorter than me... It's frustrating.

Watching this and thinking that 162 cm is being tall because I’m 148 cm 😂……

nooo... dont stop mait. stripping makes you flexible

The red seems to be so much fun, would love to try it

Eventhough its probably way out my league 😂

Great stuf you guys, keep it up

Pretty sure tall climbers have no idea how short climbers feel and short climbers have no idea how tall climbers feel.

wish i wasn't terrible at climbing

llove video

I understand you because you are talking to me and they say, he finnished the climb because his hight. I am 6'3 tall. Now you show them. ❤🤝

The answer for me is Adam Ondra.
If you're gonna be a tall climber, you best be flexy as hell.

So funny, i have to stop the video and write a comment. This grey haired young guy makes me laugh in a row while falling of a thousand times at that red boulder no. 4. trying to get his foot on that small foothold. Thank you, you made my day! All the best, Dave

From personal experience I have noticed that short climbers often have way more strength and a little bit more technique than tall climbers have. So when a tall and short climber both do the same boulder, the short climber does it way better, even if both climbers send it right away. In other words: for most boulders being tall is a pretty big advantage, which explains why they're usually a bit less skillful and strong. After all, you don't practice what you don't need.
Me and my friend started climbing a while back at the exact same time. He's taller than me, though, so he can finish most boulders with 1 or 2 moves less than I need to send it. Now, after climbing for some time, I have noticed that I have stronger arms and fingers, even though we both put in the same amount of hours.

being tall is an advantage
being light is an advantage
being strong is an advantage
but those 3 attributes don't correlate very well

I just developed a crush on Jon watching this 🫠

I feel like, being tall is a false advantage, of course u have everything easier, but the smaller u are, the easier to pull everything else, but u also have to climb everything

I hear Mag Dust increases your ape index.

I find being tall lets me be more creative with my climbs as my arms and legs have access to more of the wall. Not saying I’m any better mind you, just that I get to come up with lots of funny and often shorter ways of completing a route :)

BANGING SESSION !!