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Dangerous to poke the liner with the mesh
ОтветитьIs HD the only one that carries this lath?
ОтветитьExcellent tips and techniques on the lathe curb. you are spot on!!
But I've always read, you should not put your wallboard into the shower pan. In fact you can/should apply a silicone barrier between the two. This will prevent mortar and organic caulks from bridging the gap.
I've torn brand new showers out where it was done as you did here and found mold/mildew growing on the wallboard because they installed the wallboard into the pan. I know... Mold should not grow on concrete board, but it will in fibrous cement board, as the mentioned fibers are wood fibers. And if you read closely, it is mold resistant. With proper waterproofing and keeping it isolated from the pan, it can do very well for 20 years, but if you skip this step. You'll end up with mold and musty odors, often even delamination as fibrous cement contracts and expands at different rates between floors and walls especially on outer walls. You'll have cracks in grout, mortar, caulk, and in extreme cases, the tile itself, which will also just fall off due to the excessive moisture being wicked up. Too exacerbate that issue I typically find that they also did not use plastic or tar paper between the studs and concrete wallboard, which means water is being wicked up the fibrous cement and into the fibrous wood studs..
I see you're using a waterproof wallboard with the waterproof membrane already applied so. You can get away without tar paper, but you didn't seal your ends where the board has been cut. The manufacturer suggests you do. Otherwise the concrete board will simply suck up the water trapping it in between the waterproof layers and will hold it there for days and yes weeks. Pay special attention to the construction next time you tear out a modern shower and I promise you will learn things. I do every time. I'll post some recent vids of a 1yr old shower I tore out and did testing with a moisture meter.
Overall, though it looks like excellent work and someone who cares about a job well done.!
I've never seen lathe put on a curb.. What makes you guys do it that way? Does it make it easier to apply tile or something? I've always used dura rock so I'm curious on different ways to do stuff.. Thanks for the vid
ОтветитьWOW, somebody that does it the Correct way thanks for sharing and showing the rest of the people who do it wrong, you mud that and will last forever 😊
ОтветитьAfter mortaring your mesh curb, and it dries, what are the next steps? I saw where someone said tar, but I don’t like that idea
ОтветитьSo now you have a floating curb... it will never be stable, and your wet mortar will get into your curb very easily and wick outside onto bathroom floor 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
ОтветитьThe wall board is in the pan.. that's a big no
ОтветитьNo nails and screws, but your mesh is with thousands of sharp edges... Why don't you use plastic mesh structures?
ОтветитьWell, as long as the bottom edge of that Hardi-Hydro board isn't cut(and maybe even if it was cut), it should be fine. The board claims to be 100% waterproof. So there ya go.
ОтветитьNice
ОтветитьIsn’t there going to be a shower door there ? And aren’t you going to screw that frame in to the step anyhow ?
ОтветитьI would’ve put my metal lath down before my preslope, then mortared
ОтветитьGreat method!
ОтветитьI hate these old mold farm pans. But you sir are 100 percent correct! No nails in curb. Ideally no 2x4s too
ОтветитьYou can if you like to know message me I'll teach you
ОтветитьAll that mortar will wick water up and over the curb. Also your backer board will wick water up from the mortar. This shower will fail
ОтветитьNo pre pitch ?
ОтветитьQuick tip you are not supposed to run your backer board all the way down to the floor!dumb ass
Ответитьthat mesh will rust, and the wall board is not supposed to be embedded in the mud bed.
ОтветитьNice that’s how I’ve been doing it.
Ответитьthat dam is way too freaking high, i make mine as low as possible and i don’t put anything into the mud bed
ОтветитьWe stopped using that style shower pan 15 years ago...... why are people still packing mud pans at all?
ОтветитьFuck that hydro block system.....
ОтветитьThe backer board should be at least 1" above the level of the pan. Cement board is porous & will wick up water. You absolutely can screw through the pan liner on the curb to secure the backer board as long as the seams & screw holes are covered with thin set & the entire surface is coated with a water proof paint like Redguard or Aquadefense. There's no reason to use lath & troweled concrete.
ОтветитьMetal lath at bottom won’t help. It needs to be in middle of pan. Bend metal larger then curb. Maybe 1” under all sides and 1” over metal. If in middle of pan it will not need nailing either. And as others have said install wall board after pouring pan slightly higher then pan and tile so it does t wick water up wall. Also pre slope is key to making this system work. Also small pebble stone around drain wrap holes so as to not accidentally fill wrap holes with mix. Also silicone calk under pan liner to drain before clamping to keep from leaking. Looks like a great start. Just need some minor tweaks.
ОтветитьThat looks like the overpriced pink Hardibacker and it will wick. We do a pre-float, then liner, then Denshield (switched from hardy a few years ago). We hold the wall board up above the pan float leaving a gap. We do the curb the same as this video. We mesh tape all corners and niches. I've seen it done different ways. Never had a pan fail, yet
ОтветитьYour doing it wrong.
Don't say no I am not.
26 years
We don't do our pans after the wall board. Now your wall board will be locked in your pan. That creates problems later no matter what your using.
Stop making your own ways and do it how you thought. Or learn if your self tought
Or you could just use 2x4's dense shield and save your self the extra work and potential faliures
ОтветитьThat wall board will turn to mush being down in the pan.
ОтветитьDoesn’t look like any pre pitch on that pan,
ОтветитьYou cant set those backers into the mud/floor. Has to be 1/4” above floated floor
ОтветитьWhat about the sharp edges touching the liner?
ОтветитьThis shower has no preslope. It is wrong
ОтветитьWe reinforce the pan with stucco wire as well.
Make sure your backer board is water proof not water resistant if you are embedded it in the tile pan.
Preslope your liner and protect the weep hole before packing your deck mud.
Cheers
I don't know why people still do it this way
ОтветитьIts so crazy how many methods there are for making a shower! Looking good brotha!
ОтветитьDoesn't look like it was hot -mopped. Just that crappy plastic liner stuff???
ОтветитьYou nailed it
ОтветитьThe mosture is coming up to the wall
ОтветитьI want to see your preslop
ОтветитьSuper job👍
ОтветитьIf I can’t afford a tile ready shower pan how do I make my own ? Do I put down that that kerdi board stuff on top of the wood floor first or liner first then the kerdi board ? Then do the walls also then seal all the lines with that special water proof guy said up there ? N as in for the curb do the same this guy did but but the liner n kerdi board first then the wire ? Someone please give me a quick run down so I can do my shower with tile
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